torquing head race bearings- special tool?

[Kwackman]

Hi,
As suggested by others, I'm thinking of getting some grease into the headrace bearings. Having seen how little there was in the front and rear wheels, it might be a good idea!

Anyways, been many years since I seen a naked head race. Last time there was a castellated nut (think that's the right term) which was supposed to be torqued down.

Does the ZRX have the same type of thing? If so, how do you torque it down? Do you need a special socket to fit the nut? And any idea what size it is?

Ta.
Davy

[yasimitysam]

Yep still a c spanner type nut , from memory 49lb . The tool I have seen but not used is a correct size c spanner with a different kind of torque wrench that slips over the handle of the c spanner and when torqued up the wrench snaps in the middle . :)

[Purge]

C spanner is useful, but not essential. Torque wrench not needed.

Your bearings will already be seated (unless you are replacing them), so just tighten down the adjuster ring with the c spanner (with front wheel clear of ground, suspension unloaded) until you feel no to and thro' play holding the legs at the wheel axle end. Check the handlebars flop to the side from centre with a gentle nudge and you then know they're not too tight as well.
No need for a torque wrench.

If fitting new bearings, the torque setting is to seat the bearings before adjusting the play, but no need to if you drift them into place using a suitable diameter tube and rubber mallet (care not to drift the outer race of the taper bearing or you can damage it.
Then repeat the above adjusting procedure.

If no c spanner, just use a long screwdriver and hammer to nudge the adjuster ring round to the right tightness.

Whilst adjusting, make sure that the top stem nut and top yoke clamp bolts are loose. When allplay is adjusted out and also not to tight, re-torque the yoke clamp bolts and top stem nut.

:purge:

[Kwackman]

C spanner is useful, but not essential. Torque wrench not needed.

Your bearings will already be seated (unless you are replacing them), so just tighten down the adjuster ring with the c spanner (with front wheel clear of ground, suspension unloaded) until you feel no to and thro' play holding the legs at the wheel axle end. Check the handlebars flop to the side from centre with a gentle nudge and you then know they're not too tight as well.
No need for a torque wrench.

If fitting new bearings, the torque setting is to seat the bearings before adjusting the play, but no need to if you drift them into place using a suitable diameter tube and rubber mallet (care not to drift the outer race of the taper bearing or you can damage it.
Then repeat the above adjusting procedure.

If no c spanner, just use a long screwdriver and hammer to nudge the adjuster ring round to the right tightness.

Whilst adjusting, make sure that the top stem nut and top yoke clamp bolts are loose. When allplay is adjusted out and also not to tight, re-torque the yoke clamp bolts and top stem nut.

:purge:
Ta.
Pity you weren't my next door neighbour! :bike:

[Purge]

I'm half pleased I'm not; would eat further into my beer time :teeth:
Mind you, could probably have adjusted it quicker than it took to write it!
:purge:

[Kwackman]

Well virtual neighbour, for another virtual beer here's another question.

Just to get to the bearings, do I need to drop the forks and wheel out? Or can I just get at the top nut(s) and loosen that and it'll all fall out together? Enjoy the beer!

[rockin rexer]

Just to get to the bearings, do I need to drop the forks and wheel out? Or can I just get at the top nut(s) and loosen that and it'll all fall out together? Enjoy the beer!


If you want to grease the bearings you will have to take the wheel and forks out ect.

[Purge]

To get to the bearings, best to take some of it apart. If you need to change the oil in the fork legs (or seals) or fit stronger springs, now is the time to do it.

Fairing off first and remove mudguard.
Loosen wheel axle clamp bolts (nut side) and loosen axle nut.
Diconnect speedo cable at wheel end.
Jack bike up and place axle stands under frame rails so front wheel is in air.
Undo brake caliper bolts and move calipers away from front tied to frame to take weight off the hoses.
Undo wheel axle nut, loosen axle clamps on the other side, pull axle out, remove front wheel.
Handlebars and controls can all stay together when unbolted from the top yoke risers and rested on a blanket on the tank to protect the paintwork.
Unplug electrical connectors to headlight / clocks / ig switch etc, then unbolt clock bracket with clocks, and then fairing frame with indicators from yokes

If you're going to service the fork legs, loosen the leg top cap bolts before loosening the yoke clamp bolts.

Remove steering stem top nut and washer, loosen top yoke clamp bolts, and remove top yoke.

Loosen lower yoke clamp bolts and remove both legs, sliding downwards out of yokes

Remove stem dust seal, 'lock' washer and undo adjuster ring nut.

Stem with lower yoke can be now lowered out of head-stock for access to the bearings for re-greasing.

:purge:

[Kwackman]

Thanks.

That's a large beer I owe you!:beer:

Not tweeking forks, just greasing the headrace bearings.

[yasimitysam]

You can get the top bearing out , for the bottom you will have to knock the stem out of the headstock .

[Purge]

Tricky to get the cup part of the top bearing out the headstock without drifting it out from the bottom. If the top yoke's off anyway, may as well take the bottom yoke /stem out.
:purge:

[jam]

I've just done a set of headraces on the 600 today, When I built the bike I forgot to re tighten them after they'd settled and as the roads down here are shite, I ended up with a notchy feel to the steering. ( my own fault for forgetting in the first place, but I was busy making sure the rest of the bike was right, so I've forgiven myself) When seating the new outer cup in the bottom use an old outer bearing and a length of studded bar and some large repair washers to install the new bearing outer races, simply tap them in to start them and then put the stud bar through the headstock and using washers and a nut at each end tighten it all up so it pulls the outer races into the headstock and all the way home. it's a better way of doing things and means you don't need to risk tapping them in at an angle and wedging them. Doing mine today took about an hour and twenty minutes.