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nickocaz26
30th July 2007, 01:46 PM
hi,
First post ever so be gentle with me!!! not had the 1100 long, have drained coolant due to re-painting exhaust header pipes, have filled back up as per manual etc...as you all know this means taking the tank off (what a pain in the arse!!). Now i have to start the bike and check for bubbles, get the fan going etc...not so easy when i have taken the tank off and disconnected all the fuel/vacuum pipes as instructed.

So i presume i am right in thinking that i have to re-connect all and balance tank on top so i can still see the radiator cap to finish the job??

Please confirm if there is an easier way because this makes a simple task a right ball ache!!

Cheers

Nick

Kwackman
30th July 2007, 01:55 PM
Hi Nick,
Welcome to the site.
I'm sure there'll be more replies shortly, but you'll probably have enough petrol in the carbs to run for a while.
If not, maybe some long tubing would help?
You won't need the balance pipe connected if you turn the tap to "prime".

Purge
30th July 2007, 01:56 PM
Block the vacuum hose which goes to the fuel tap with a machine screw. It'll idle roughly if you don't.

Get a small funnel as a fuel reservoir, push it into the fuel pipe and cable tie it to the top frame rail.

Undo the thermostat housing bleed screw and fill the coolant to the neck of the filler. Also fill the expansion tank to the lower line.
The system won't fill unless you have the bleed screw open.

Squash the rad hoses as you're filling to get as much air out as possible.

Now do up the bleed screw, leave the filler cap off and start up, keeping the funnel filled with petrol. Again, whilst it's running, squeeze / tap the hoses to get more bubbles out. Open the bleed screw and make sure coolant comes out. Tighten it up again. Top up the filler, put the cap on and then turn the engine off.

Refit the tank etc, then after afew rides, check the expansion tank when cold, and fill to just above the lower line.

rayburn600
30th July 2007, 02:17 PM
I have found that if you have tank removed. Fill system with bleed screw open. When full replace cap, and top up expansion tank.

Now go for a good ride. About 100 mph should do it. 10 miles.

Come back let engine cool for 10 mins.
Remove cap and top up as ness'. Check expansion bottle. job done.

Allways recheck water levels, and for any leaks after a week.
No probs.

Purge
30th July 2007, 02:58 PM
That works, but you have to take the tank off and re-fit it twice.

rayburn600
31st July 2007, 09:42 PM
Quote "That works, but you have to take the tank off and re-fit it twice"


Oh Dear........

It'll be good practice for him.

Purge
1st August 2007, 04:25 PM
Oh Dear........

Each to their own, if you like inventing work for no reason :dunno:

yasimitysam
1st August 2007, 04:35 PM
I have found that if you have tank removed. Fill system with bleed screw open. When full replace cap, and top up expansion tank.

Now go for a good ride. About 100 mph should do it. 10 miles.

Come back let engine cool for 10 mins.
Remove cap and top up as ness'. Check expansion bottle. job done.

Allways recheck water levels, and for any leaks after a week.
No probs.


He would'nt get back home cus all the coolant woulda pissed out of the still open bleed screw

Purge
1st August 2007, 04:41 PM
:lol:

rayburn600
1st August 2007, 09:40 PM
Oh and PS.

DONT FORGET THE BLEED SCREW.

Purge
1st August 2007, 11:27 PM
Don't forget to do what with the bleed screw :mut:

rayburn600
2nd August 2007, 10:44 PM
No no I'm not gonna fall into this one again..

Snoopy will be along soon to give us his opinion.:hmm:

yasimitysam
2nd August 2007, 10:49 PM
:hmm: tyres, oil, tyres, forkbrace, tyres, oil temp guage,tyres, home made bellypan,tyres, blackbird, tyres . Snoops bleedscrew comment will be a first . Did I mention tyres ;)

Purge
3rd August 2007, 11:49 AM
After wasting 2 hours trying to bleed the air out of the coolant on purge2 yesterday, I will amend my advice above, which has always worked.......until yesterday :doh:

After doing all the above and you have an air block (in my case, no water would circulate around the rad), either rev the bike up to clear it, or more reliably and easily (so Pal informs me) crack the waterpump bleed screw open.

Desertsky
3rd August 2007, 11:53 AM
After wasting 2 hours trying to bleed the air out of the coolant on purge2 yesterday, I will amend my advice above, which has always worked.......until yesterday :doh:

After doing all the above and you have an air block (in my case, no water would circulate around the rad), either rev the bike up to clear it, or more reliably and easily (so Pal informs me) crack the waterpump bleed screw open.

I was wondering if anyone would mention that! If you don't drain the system below the pump, you usually don't have to do that. If you empty the system, you will have to bleed the pump as well.

yasimitysam
3rd August 2007, 07:03 PM
After wasting 2 hours trying to bleed the air out of the coolant on purge2 yesterday, I will amend my advice above, which has always worked.......until yesterday :doh:

After doing all the above and you have an air block (in my case, no water would circulate around the rad), either rev the bike up to clear it, or more reliably and easily (so Pal informs me) crack the waterpump bleed screw open.


Tsk Tsk I do mine every time :)

Purge
3rd August 2007, 09:46 PM
Yes, shame on me.
Beat me with wooden sticks ;)

yasimitysam
3rd August 2007, 10:58 PM
Yes, shame on me.
Beat me with wooden sticks ;)

See you at Medbourne :lol:

Purge
3rd August 2007, 11:05 PM
Looking forward to it already :lol:

yasimitysam
3rd August 2007, 11:07 PM
So was C.Fox on fantapants day :lol:

Purge
3rd August 2007, 11:08 PM
Yeah, try to keep it in yer pants this time :lol:

motorcitycobra
6th August 2007, 12:49 PM
hi,

So i presume i am right in thinking that i have to re-connect all and balance tank on top so i can still see the radiator cap to finish the job??

Please confirm if there is an easier way because this makes a simple task a right ball ache!!

Cheers

Nick

To tank and fuel & vacuum hoses:

I have taken off the tank and placed it somewhere beside the Rex, higher than the carburetors of course.

Used a longer and smaller fuel hose with ID 8 mm (transparent) which I was able to put on the tank tap (because it is expandable in diameter), and at the same time fits tentative inside the original fuel hose (ID 10 mm) which is connected to the carbs.

Or you can also use something like fuel filter where you can connect the 2 fuel hoses - in this case would make sence to use a original size hose, maybe transparent so that you see what happens.

Then I put the fuel tap on PRI and did not need to care about the vacuum hose etc.. Good enough for short time fuel-feeding from Tank in external position.

Maybe this helps a bit!:)

yasimitysam
6th August 2007, 03:06 PM
Just plug the end of the vacume pipe or it will tick over crap I usualy run it till the fan cuts in .

Mozie
11th August 2007, 02:24 PM
Ok...took me rad off yesterday and took it to the nice men at Colchester Radiator specialists to be repaired...didnt fully drain the system (water is still in the bottom hose), sooooo...whos rite? gisa full rundown on wot i gotta do!
I've found that i can leave the tank on the bike and just move it back enuf to get to the filler and bleed nipple so i can run the bike no probs just need to sort the air bubble bit. :baby:

Desertsky
11th August 2007, 02:41 PM
Ok...took me rad off yesterday and took it to the nice men at Colchester Radiator specialists to be repaired...didnt fully drain the system (water is still in the bottom hose), sooooo...whos rite? gisa full rundown on wot i gotta do!
I've found that i can leave the tank on the bike and just move it back enuf to get to the filler and bleed nipple so i can run the bike no probs just need to sort the air bubble bit. :baby:

Having done this a few times, I found that if you don't completely drain the system, you don't need to bleed the water pump. If you just remove the rad, just refill the system, start it and war it up, then bleed the thermostat housing and you should be fine.

Mozie
11th August 2007, 04:58 PM
Cool...i'm on it!

speedlimit
14th August 2007, 09:39 AM
er a wis havin overheatin (coolant ventin out of vent pipe) probs ended up replacin thermostat an rad cap. Bled whole sytem both at top an bottom. Sorted :)